Baluchistan
West of the Indus Plains is Baluchistan, the
largest province in Pakistan with an area about
343,000 square km. But though it's bigger than
the British Isles, it only has a population of
about one million, due mainly to its daunting
arid geography.
In the south of the province, Makran is almost
entirely desert with low, dry hills rising from
300 meters to 2500 meters in the north. In the
west there is a large salt lake,
Hammum-i-Maskhel, and more expansive desert
plains. This is where the Chagai and Toba Kakar
Mountain Ranges form the borders of Iran,
Afghanistan and Pakistan.
Baluchistan is outside the monsoon zone and has,
with the exception of the hilly and arid
mountainous regions, a pleasant climate. In
winter the temperature falls to as low as - 30 C
while in summer it ranges from 18 to 30 C. The
province has been influenced by the
civilizations in the Indus, Dir and Swat
Valleys. One of the oldest Neolithic sites (6000
BC) is to be found at Mehr Ghar just south of
Bolan Pass. This culture faded away in 3000 BC
about the same time that the Indus Valley
Civilization emerged.
Fiercely independent Baluchistan never really
became part of the Mughal Empire, but
effectively remained an autonomous frontier
tributary. In India they fought the Hindus and
gained some influence in the Punjab and Sindh.
In order to survive they expediently changed
their loyalty and allegiance when necessary; at
one time with the Moghuls, then the Persians and
the Afghans, but their constant was the fight
for Islam. When the Mughal power declined they
took on the Sikhs, the Marathis and finally the
British, who arrived in 1841.
Makran, once a thriving region with its capital
in Panjgur and commercial entrepot in Tiz with
'great warehouses, palm groves and a beautiful
mosque, with people of all nations', simply
dried up.
Baluchistan is where the alternative rout of the
Euro-Asian Highway passes from Zahedan in Iran
to Taftan in Baluchistan and on to Quetta.
Another alternative road turns south from
Kandahar in Afghanistan into Chaman in
Baluchistan - this was the route for freight
bound for Afghanistan arriving through Karachi
harbour. Apart from its importance as a transit
area, there are mineral resources which are just
beginning to be tapped. The Sui district has one
of the largest gas deposits in the world.
Baluchistan is a province of contrasts. It has
some of the bleakest landscape in the country
with grim, jagged mountains, barren and arid
land where the sparse greenery shrivels and
wilts, but hidden away are some stunningly
beautiful places.
Quetta, the capital of Baluchistan, is linked
by air, rail and road with all the major cities
of Pakistan, particularly Karachi which has an
international airport. Ziarat is connected by
133 km road from Quetta. Regular coach, bus and
wagon services ply between Quetta and Ziarat,
particularly during the tourist season.
Quetta is situated at elevation of 1677
meters (5500 ft). Quetta is one of the best
known tourist resort and also provincial capital
of Baluchistan. The name Quetta is derived from
the world ' Kuwatta' which means a fort. The
city is surrounded by imposing hills like
Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. It lies
1692 meters above sea level at the mouth of
Bolan Pass. The inhabitants are mainly Pathans,
Baluch and Brahuis. Nomadic tribes- man pass
through Quetta valley during spring and autumn
with their herds of sheep and camels.
 See Also:
Quetta
City
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 A
little short of the place where the Urak valley
begins and ten kms from Quetta is the Hinna
Lake. The greenish- blue water of the lake
provides a rich contrast to the sandy brown of
the hills in the back ground.
The Urak valley is 21 km from Quetta city.
The road is lying on both sides with wild roses
and fruit orchards. Peaches, palms, apricots and
apples of many varieties are grown in this
valley.
Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km
south-west of Quetta, rare animals like'
Markhors' have been declared a protected
species. The park is spread over 38,429 acres
with altitude ranging from 2021 to 3264 meters.
It has a variety of wildlife specially Markhor
of which there are five distinct kinds. The kind
that is encountered most often is the Chiltan
Markhor. The other animals include
straight-horned Markhor, 'gad' (wild sheep) and
leopards which occasionally migrate to the park
from other areas, wolves stripped hyaena, hares,
wild cats and porcupines.
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The coastline of Baluchistan extends over 750
kms from Hub near Karachi, to the Gawadar Bay on
Pakistan-Iran border. The whole area is rich
with a variety of marine life and has long sunny
beaches. Coastal towns of Pasni, Jiwani and
Gawadar are linked by air with Karachi. The
coastal tribes are as colorful as those of
central and upper Baluchistan. Their colorful
costumes, songs and dances are fascinating.
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 Bolan
Pass
Along Bolan Pass, where the road winds
through the picturesque mountains one is
reminded of the huge odds that the armies from
Central Asia and north must have faced when
swooping down the plains of he present day
Pakistan.
Khojak
Pass
The Khojak Pass leads directly to the border
of Afghanistan which is 153 kms away from
Quetta. The scenery is as breath-taking here as
it is at Bolan Pass. The journey to the border
town of Chaman passes through a 4 kms tunnel,
more than 1945 meters above sea level.
Lak
Pass
Lak Pass is located between Kalat and Quetta.
Here the highway takes a turn for Koh-e-Taftan,
Saindak copper mines and Zahidan in Iran. On the
hills, oblivious to the presence of the traffic
and humans, hundreds of sheep browse upon the
scant grass available.
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 Pakistan
has a number of beautiful valleys, enchanting
their spectators with enthralling beauty but
Ziarat's is importance and an archaic treasure
of Junipers forests. Situated about 122 km in
the north of metropolis city of Quetta in
Baluchistan, this popular picnic resort is at
the elevation of 8,200 feet from the sea level.
The summers in the valley are always pleasant,
attracting a number of tourists, and the winters
extremely harsh. Junipers forests, which are one
of the world oldest, are the main source of lush
green vista of the Ziarat valley. some of the
trees in Junipers forests had been sowed as long
as 5000 years ago, making Ziarat as the second
biggest Junipers valley in the world.
The word Ziarat means a 'shrine' (grave of a
holy man). A folklore tells a saint, Kharwari
Baba, who is believed to have stayed in the
valley and blessed it. He was a member of
Sarangzai tribe and his original name was Mulla
Tahir. Later he became a disciple of Nana Sahib.
A number of miracles are attributed to Khurwari
Baba. The shrine of Khurwari Baba, after which
Ziarat was named, is located 8 km away from
Ziarat and is visited by a large number of
people to pay attribute to the divine soul.
Ziarat takes pride in hosting Quaid-e-Azam
Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan on
a number of occasions. He also spent the last
days of his life in a government residency
there.
This monumental residency was built in 1882
by the British government and till independence
was in the use of the agents of the British
governor general for India as their summer
headquarters.
The residency is embellished with beautiful
lawns, covered with grassy carpets and with
roses, dancing at the rhythmic tunes of wind,
all around the garden. From there one can have a
striking view of the picturesque valley.
The
Gorges
Baluchistan is an arid land which receives
very low rainfall annually. But innumerable
natural springs known as 'Karez' and streams
provide enough water for drinking and
cultivation of fruits and crops in most o the
areas. There are more than half a dozen gorges
around Ziarat formed by natural 'Karez' - spring
water falling through narrow openings amongst
the mountain rocks producing a dramatic effect.
The sound of waterfalls singing to the tune of
solid rocks while passing through narrow gorges
creates a mystic atmosphere. The famous gorges
along the road to Ziarat are Chutair Tangi, Kahn
Tangi, Kawas Tangi, Fern Tangi and Sandeman
Tangi. One can approach easily to these gorges
by diverting from the main road to have a
picnic, adventure and fun.
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