History of Mountain Exploration

For centuries travellers have been lured by the grandeur and massiveness of the Karakoram and Hindukush. The Chinese were the earliest known travellers on the famous Silk Route which passed through these magnificent ranges and recorded their impressions of dark mountains, rope bridges and mighty glaciers. Fattien crossed the Karakoram through Mintika Pass (4710 m) in 390 AD on his way from Sinkiang to the South Asian Sub-continent. Hinen Tsang trekked his way through the Karakoram to this region in 603 AD. Marco Polo’s journey from Venice to the court of Kublai Khan in 13th century left its imprints here including the Marco Polo sheep. Ibne Batuta of Tangiers travelled here in the 14th century. Later many European notables visited Karakoram for adventure, exploration, scientific studies and mountain climbing in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.

In the early nineteenth century explorers like Mr J Henderson and Mr G T Vinge travelled to Skardu in 1834 and 1836. Serious mountaineering in Karakoram began in 1892 when Martin Conway, while carrying out survey of the upper Indus, attempted to climb peaks in the area including Rakaposhi. He returned to the region in 1902 when he tried to climb K-2. In 1909 the great Duke of Abruzzi from Italy brought his large expedition to climb and survey the upper Boltoro region. Thus began a series of exploratory and mountaineering expeditions to the Karakoram. Till 1947, a number of European mountaineers and explorers including British, Italian and American had visited the region. After independence in 1947, number of the expeditions to the area increased. In 1953 an American expedition made an unsuccessful attempt on K-2, whereas in 1954 an Italian expedition led by Prof Ardito Desio successfully made the first ascent of the savage mountain - K-2. Mr Lino Lecedelli and Archille Compagnoni became the first men to reach K-2 summit, climbing through the Abruzzi ridge. Since opening up of the area for general mountaineering and trekking in 1974, a large number of expeditions visit Karakoram each year. A Pak-Japanese expedition successfully put the first Japanese mountaineer along with first Pakistani mountaineer Mr Ashraf Aman on the K-2 summit in 1977. K-2 has since been climbed by a large number of climbers from all its sides and slopes. Mr Nazir Sabir, while in the company of another Pak-Japanese expedition in 1981, made the first ascent of the most difficult West ridge of K-2. Mr Rajab Shah and Mr Meherban Shah became the first Pakistani pair to stand on summit of K-2 in 1995. Till date K-2 has been climbed by large number of mountaineers from different countries, including internationally renowned and eminent mountaineers like Reinhold Messener and others. On the average Karakoram receives up to 55 expeditions each year. Other high peaks of Karakoram have since been climbed by a large number of foreign and Pakistani mountaineers, yet there are number of other high peaks which still lay unclimbed waiting for those who dare to challenge them.

Hindukush

Locals believes as:

"Very unfriendly range as it is deserted, barren and rugged. Hindu was the nation of this land which was being called Hindustan (Land of Hindus) before independence of Pakistan while “Kush” mean killer, meaning thereby that land which kills people. It was believed that no one had ever come back who went inside this range".

The Hindukush rises South West of Pamirs. It is considered to extend from Wakhjir pass at the junction of the Pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass North of Kabul. Its first regions extends from Wakhjir pass separating Hunza from Wakhan and up to Dorah pass (320 kms in length). Its second region lies beyond Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third region which runs for 240 kms lies in Pakistan and extends into Swat and Kohistan. On the East it is separated from Karakoram by Indus River. Highest of Hindukush is Tirich Mir (7708). Other peaks include Istr-o-Nal (7403 m), Saraghar (7349 m), Noshaq (7492 m), Darban Zom (7219m) and Shingeik Zom. Few glaciers exit in the range, but of lesser significance.

The area, due to geographic features, had access from Afghanistan and was first explored by the Europeans in 1830, followed by the British survey teams. Attempts were also made by British survey teams to scale Tirichmir and other peaks in the area as early as 1927. Tirichmir was, however, climbed in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Mr Arne Naess. Since then it has been climbed by numerous expeditions from different nationalities including Pakistanis. Other peaks in the area were climbed later in the sixties and seventies. Although all peaks 7000 m (Above sea level) in the Hindukush stand climbed yet the area continues to lure climbers and nature lovers. In recent years other adventure tourism activities like trekking and jeep safaris have increased in the area.

Prominent treks in the area include Kalash - Chambol Pass (15 days round trip from Islamabad), trek across Thui Pass from Chitral to Gilgit (25 days round trip from Islamabad) and Darkut trek from Chitral, Mastuj to Gilgit (3 weeks round trip from Islamabad).

Western Himalayas

The Western Himalayas is situated between Kashmir valley in the East to Indus River in the North and West, and is dominated by Nanga Parbat massif with highest peak rising at 8125 metres (ASL). The range comprise the regions of Kashmir, Kaghan, Kohistan, Deosai and Chilas. The range is also dominated by Deosai plains situated at the height of about 4500 metre (ASL) which is filled with flowers in the summer months, presenting the most rewarding scenic view. The monsoons penetrate the area in the summer. Of late, some winter climbing has also started. Nanga Parbat complex has numerous routes but the prominent base camps are Rupal (Eastern face), Raikot / Fairy Meadows face (North Western face), Diamer face (the Western face) and the long West Mazeno ridge. It was explored by Europeans in later part of nineteenth century. The Schlagintweet brothers from Germany visited Nanga Parbat region as early as 1854. A British expedition led by Mr A F Mummery attempted to find a way up the Southern and Western slopes in 1895. In 1932 a German cum American expedition attempted to climb Nanga Parbat. Later it was attempted by German expeditions in 1937 and 1939 with heavy loss of life and, therefore, is aptly called a German mountain. It was, however, in 1953 that an Austro German expedition led by Mr Herlingkoffer succeeded in conquering this killer mountain. Mr Hermann Buhl in an unprecedented 40 hour solo climb succeeded in reaching the summit. The peak has since been climbed from all sides by number of climbers including Mr Reinhold Messener, who has climbed it on more than one occasions. Sher Khan, Rajab Shah, Mohammed-ullah and Atta ul Haq became the first Pakistanis to scale Nanga Parbat in 1989.

Potohar or Potwar plateau

Potohar or Potwar plateau is situated an area of about 7,000 sq.miles with an elevation of 1,000-2,000 feet. It is bounded on the east by the Jhelum, on the west by the Indus, on the north by the Kala Chitta Range and the Margalla Hills, and on the south by the Salt Range. The gradual northern slope of the Salt Range makes the southern boundary of the Potwar ill-defined. The plateau slopes from north-east to south-west and, with the exception of the south-eastern portion draining to the Jhelum, belongs to the Soan Basin. It is a typical ‘bad-land’, cut up by deep-set ravines, known locally as khaderas. Above the broken surface of the Soan Basin rise the limestone and sandstone hills of Khairi Murat, Kheri Mar and Kala Chitta.

The Salt Range is a feature of great geological interest since it presents a complete geological sequence from earliest times. The steep southern face, rising to about, 2,000 feet, also evokes interest. It is an example of a ‘dislocation mountain’. ‘Its orthoclinal outline suggests that these mountains are the result of a monoclonal uplift combined with vertical dislocation along their southern border which has depressed the other half underneath the plains.’

The range begins in the east near the Jhelum in the Jogi Tilla (3,400 feet above sea level) and Bakralla Ridges, and comprises parallel ranges of low, flat-topped hills enclosing small intermontane valleys, basin plains, or plateaus, and a number of saline lakes. Two of the larger lakes are Khabeki and Kallar Kahar. At Kalabagh the range crosses the Indus and then continues south-west into Bannu District.

Related Information :
Social Groups | Karakuram Range | Mountain Exploration History | Passes | Lakes

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